Get the VIN before arranging your visit.

Compare it with the report now and the vehicle and title when you arrive.

Ask the dealer for a free CARFAX if available. Otherwise, get a report yourself.

A report is one part of the check. A clean report does not prove the vehicle has never been damaged.

Look for service records, mileage discrepancies, title issues and reported accidents.

Compare dates and mileage. Ask about gaps or anything that does not match the advertisement.

Ask for records and details of recent repairs.

What was done, why was it needed, who did it, and are invoices available?

Ask whether recent repairs used genuine, aftermarket or used parts.

The part and the quality of the repair both matter. Aftermarket does not automatically mean bad.

Request undercarriage photos and a short engine-running video if the seller can provide them.

Ask for clear, well-lit views. Photos and video do not replace an inspection.

Ask the seller to leave the engine cold and allow enough time for inspection and a test drive.

Ask about a suitable highway route, permission and insurance before driving.

An inspection before you travel can help you decide whether the trip is worthwhile.

Serious findings may save you a wasted trip. If the findings are acceptable, still inspect the vehicle personally. A qualified mechanic can check areas and systems you cannot.

Compare the title VIN with the VIN visible through the windshield, where fitted.

Cross-check the correct body identification locations. Do not rely only on a label attached to a replaceable door. A mismatch needs proper verification.

Make sure the seller can legally sell the vehicle and ask about any lien.

Resolve title, ownership or lien questions through the proper process before paying.

Record scratches, dents, damaged trim and unusual panel gaps.

Photograph anything you want to discuss with the seller.

Look for chips, cracks and other damage.

Check the rest of the glass too.

Look from several angles for panels that are a different shade.

A difference is a reason to look more closely, not proof of an accident by itself.

Notice musty smells, wet carpets or water staining.

Look beneath removable mats and in accessible storage areas. Do not pull off fixed trim.

Open each door from the outside and the inside.

Ask about child locks if a rear door will not open from inside.

Check the latch, storage space and visible condition.

Check the spare and tools if supplied.

Look for water, rust, damage or unusual repairs.

Ask permission before lifting removable panels. Do not dismantle the vehicle.

Look near the taillights for kinked metal, damaged seams or repair work.

Record what you see without assuming how it happened.

Look for rust, damage and damaged lines or mounting points.

Never go under a vehicle supported only by a jack or unsupported air suspension. Use a shop for safe access.

Check accessible engine, transmission and driveline areas, and the ground underneath.

Fluid can run down from above. Use gloves and a white towel for an accessible sample. Do not taste it or identify it by color alone.

Use a tread gauge across the tread and at several places around each tire.

Record the lowest reading for each tire. For passenger tires, 2/32 inch is worn out—not a good buying target. Heavier vehicles need their own limits.

Find the last four date digits in the DOT marking on each tire.

2322 means week 23 of 2022. The full code may be on the inside. Follow the tire and vehicle maker’s age guidance; good tread does not cancel age. Some replacement guidance is six to ten years, and damage can require earlier replacement.

Look at the sidewalls and between tread blocks for cracks, cuts, bulges or exposed cords.

Check regardless of tire age. Questionable tires need professional assessment before driving.

Look for uneven edges, cupping or flat spots.

Pressure, alignment, balance and worn parts can all matter. Do not assume an alignment alone will fix it.

Compare tires and cold pressures with the vehicle’s requirements.

Use the vehicle placard or manual, not the sidewall maximum. Check the spare’s condition and age too.

Use the manual’s procedure on level ground. Check the level and look for contamination.

Usually the engine must be off for a specified waiting period. Wipe and reinsert the dipstick before reading, or follow the electronic check. Stay within the marked range. Fresh oil is often amber; used oil can darken normally, especially in diesels. Particles, persistent milkiness or an unusual burnt odor need investigation. Do not deliberately inhale fumes.

Check the reservoir level and look for contamination.

Never open a hot pressurized cap. Color alone does not identify the coolant type.

Check the specified level and visible condition without introducing dirt.

Common fluid can be clear to amber. Clear does not prove it is good. Unexpectedly low fluid, contamination or a suspected leak needs investigation.

Follow the correct reservoir or dipstick procedure.

Electric power steering has no hydraulic reservoir to check. Fluid type and hot/cold marks vary.

Use a compatible scanner. Save the results and do not erase anything.

I/M readiness tells you whether emissions self-checks have run. Ready means complete; Not Ready means unfinished; Unsupported means not used. Cleared codes or a disconnected battery can reset monitors. No codes plus unfinished checks is not an all-clear. A basic scanner may not read every system.

Start the vehicle and listen for unusual cranking or engine noises.

Ask about a cold start. Stop if a serious noise or warning appears.

Note the color and whether smoke or vapor clears or continues.

Brief condensation vapor can be normal. Blue, persistent dense white or excessive dark smoke deserves investigation; a few puffs are not automatically normal for every vehicle.

Observe the normal lamp check, then look for lights that stay on and uneven running.

Check applicable engine, brake, ABS and airbag warnings. Never dismiss a warning without understanding it.

Use the exact checking procedure and note any burnt odor or contamination.

The required fluid temperature, engine status and selector position vary. A warm engine is not proof that the transmission is ready to measure. Some units require a shop. Colors vary. A burnt odor is a warning, not a prediction of remaining life. Do not touch a hot dipstick or deliberately inhale fumes.

Test each fitted window and its switches.

A working driver’s switch does not prove every other switch works.

Check every power lock and the remote.

Record missing remotes or functions that do not work.

Check fitted door and trunk key locks.

A working remote does not prove the mechanical key works.

Check fitted front and rear functions.

Do not run dry wipers across dirty glass.

Test briefly where safe and appropriate.

Verify each turn signal and the emergency flashers actually light.

Do not rely only on the dashboard arrows.

Verify low beams, high beams, brake lights and other fitted lights.

Ask someone to help with brake and reverse lights safely. Never stand in a vehicle’s path.

Try fitted adjustments and check that belts latch and retract.

Use the correct controls while parked. Do not remove protective covers or tamper with airbags.

Check the fitted settings and both seats where applicable.

Check normal operation and look for signs of water entry.

Keep hands and objects clear. Do not force a stuck mechanism.

Try mirrors, cameras, parking sensors and other equipment you find.

Follow the manual. Do not provoke driver-assistance systems in traffic.

Check sound, speakers and normal controls.

Ask about legitimate code documentation if the audio unit requests a code.

Try cooling, heat, fan speeds, vents and defrost.

Check rear or separate zones if fitted. Do not assume weak cooling only needs refrigerant.

Confirm permission, the appropriate plate or registration, and insurance arrangements.

Allow about 15–25 minutes as a starting point. More time or specialist testing may be needed. Do not drive with an unresolved serious tire, brake, fuel or structural concern.

In a clear area, check engagement and movement in reverse.

Notice delay, harsh engagement, shudder or noise. Stop completely before selecting forward drive.

Weather permitting, open the driver’s window and listen for unusual sounds.

Turn off music. Keep fan settings sufficient for clear windows.

Accelerate gently, then moderately when conditions allow.

Notice hesitation, stumbling, slipping or vibration. Do not use aggressive maneuvers to provoke a fault.

Notice engagement, upshifts, downshifts and cruising behavior.

Check the gears the route allows safely. Watch for delays, flare, shudder or harsh shifts. CVTs and some hybrids do not follow a conventional fixed-gear sequence.

Notice a persistent pull or constant steering correction.

Keep your hands on the wheel. Road crown, wind, tires, alignment and worn parts can affect the result.

Make progressive stops in a clear, safe place.

Notice pulling, vibration, grinding or an unusual pedal. A sticking caliper is one possible cause of pull, not a confirmed diagnosis.

Note humming, rumbling, clicking, whining or grinding from front or rear.

Notice changes with road speed, ordinary curves, acceleration and braking. Tires, bearings, brakes and driveline parts can sound similar. Do not weave to test a bearing.

Use normal highway speeds where legal, safe and appropriate for the vehicle.

Note shaking, pulling or wandering. A speed band alone cannot prove imbalance or rule it out. Do not increase speed through a serious vibration.

Use a suitable road and check normal setting and cancellation.

Follow the vehicle’s actual minimum speed and operating conditions. Skip the test if the road or traffic is unsuitable.

Identify the system and follow its exact test procedure.

Part-time 4WD may bind on dry high-grip pavement. Use the required surface and shift conditions. If you cannot verify it safely, mark it as needing a check.

Notice abnormal readings or warning messages as the vehicle warms.

Stop safely for overheating or serious warnings. Do not open a hot coolant cap.

Park safely and check for fresh leaks, smoke or unusual smells.

Stay clear of hot and moving parts.

Note how it restarts and recheck anything that was inconsistent.

Record any new or pending codes and review readiness.

Do not clear codes. This drive may not complete every monitor.

Keep unfinished checks visible before deciding.

Do not turn an untested item into a green result.

Look at every red, yellow and unfinished item in one place.

A finished checklist does not guarantee a good vehicle.

Separate confirmed repairs from issues that still need diagnosis.

Do not price a repair as certain just because a symptom has several possible causes.

Include purchase price, fees, taxes, necessary work and a reserve for uncertainty.

Use current written figures. This checklist does not calculate a vehicle’s market value.

A low price may justify a known repair risk if the numbers work for you.

My advice is usually to avoid burnt-smelling transmission fluid unless the price justifies a properly assessed repair risk. A discount does not make an unsafe vehicle safe to drive home.

Record agreed repairs, included items and the final terms before paying.

Confirm the final documents match the agreement.

Buy, get more information, or walk away.

Unresolved ownership, identity, serious safety or structural concerns need proper resolution—not another reassuring checkmark.